School starts, computers and friends

School started properly on Wednesday.  Seems just the same apart from a few more teachers and different kids. 

On arriving each day the kids have to clean the school compound; sweeping, tidying up, collecting water etc before assembly is held and any announcements made.  This usually cuts into the first lesson period which is supposed to start at 8am but usually around 8:15-8:30.  Many of the kids turn up late and are dully shouted at and on occasion, if very late, are caned.  I don't like the canning, however it's the norm over here (as it used to be back in the UK).  Many of the boys wear several layers of underwear hoping that will make it less painful.  Maybe if they didn't misbehave or turn up late in the first place they needn't worry.  But kids are the same all over and misbehaving seems to be second nature. lol

Some of the teachers under a
mango tree.

I am now teaching ICT (Form 1) and Maths (Form 1).  My first lesson, Maths, was supposed to be at 8am today (Monday).  By the time the rain stopped and everyone was at the school it started at 9, leaving me 10 mins to teach the pupils before their next lesson.    What a start to the week. lol.

Coconut trees at the school.

The kids at the school have to bring their own desks and seats.  The Education Authority is apparently in the process of obtaining some to distribute to the various schools.  However, when these will be available for collection is anyone's guess.  Maybe they'll be here by the time I next visit.

Coconuts, yum yum

Badu arranged an estimate for the doors and windows of one of the rooms here at the JHS.   The cost is a bit more than I thought it was going to be and would not leave any cash to buy a few second hand computers to help the kids in their ICT studies.  After speaking to the Headmaster and teachers, the general consensus seems to be that computers would benefit the pupils more.  An empty room could be made more secure to keep all the books in, leaving the current staff/library/computer room free for just computers.

When I spoke to Badu regarding this he didn't seem happy and slightly annoyed.  He has been focused on getting the one room completed and thinks this is the best use of the money I have raised.  The conversation ended with him saying it was up to me.   The following day Dixon (Headmaster) called me over and mentioned he had seen Badu before he returned to Accra, had also noted how annoyed he was, but after some discussion it was agreed computers would be best, especially as the kids have to learn ICT and sit the same exams as those who have access to pcs.  Computers it is then and a trip to Accra to get cheaper ones than at Ho.  Looking forward to the fun of transporting them back via natural air-con bus!

Nat has been continuing to try and teach me Ewe.  All good so far (I think) apart from some of my pronounciation.  We popped to Ho the other day to try and find a beginners learning book.  Unfortunately nowhere seems to sell an Ewe-English phrase book anymore so I've picked up a very basic book with pictures.  I feel about 6 years old. lol.

Jackson and myself visited the paramount Chief over the weekend to discuss details of the plot of land him and his family generously gave me and indicate my intention to build a house.  All is ready for demarkation and sorting out the plan and quote.  Yay!  Will pop to the site again soon to see the land and how I'd like the building to be situated etc.  Will be great in the future to have my own place here and where friends/family can stay if they decide to come over.

Stephen and me at the drinking
spot in Ho.

Esther, the cook at the Ho drinking
 spot.

I've made a few friends at the usual drinking spot in Ho.  They seem a nice bunch, most in their mid 20s, early 30s, some continuing their education in college.  As with everyone over here, they like their dancing and keep inviting me to the local club.  I'll prob pop by one weekend but no jumping around for me in case of another injury.  Although that doesn't seem the be the type of dancing that goes on over here, so maybe I'll just sit and watch the more sexy, bump and grinding out of a 50 Cent video.  Think they've got enough to talk about without some white woman strutting her stuff on the dance floor.

It was absolutely boiling yesterday.  Did some washing then had to have a rest to try and stop sweating.  Stephen called to say a few of them were heading to the Freedom Hotel where there's a pool.  Very tempting if it wouldn't take me about an hour to get there.  So a shower will have to do and at least no one will see my very white legs and belly.  No doubt another shower before bed as the sweating starts almost immediately.  Sometimes I wonder what's the point.

There's another wasp in the bathroom.  Again I'll be a coward and ask someone else to remove it.  There was a tiny green frog in there the other evening.  Looked like ones you see on nature programmes from the Amazon.  Reminded me of a programme where some nutter licked the back of one to see if it was hallucinagenic regardless of whether it was poisonous or not.  He survived, nothing happened and he wasn't honoured with a Darwin Award.  I'm sure it won't be long.

No new developments on the spider or crunching noises thankfully, however, the mozzies are on an excelerated rampage.  Word's got around that Sam's back so there seems to be a free for all.  Thankfully I've picked up some more anti-malarials in Ho.  I know I'm a veggi but mozzies can be wiped off the face of the earth has far as I and most other people are concerned.  No use whatsoever and only spread various deadly diseases. 

On a good note, the goats and chickens are frolicking about.  A lot more sheep seem to be patrolling, so peace keeping missions are continuing to be successful.  

Bye for now

Sam x

Shopping, Education Minister and Scholarships

Again, at the house with a few of
the kids.

After my visit to the internet cafe on Wednesday I took a walk to the Market and passing by a 'boutique', a top caught my eye.  I'd been thinking of buying a vest type top which would be a bit cooler than my t-shirts and the two vest tops I've brought are now slightly big for me, as well as having thick straps which are leaving big white stripes on my shoulders.  I popped in and was greeted by Matti, a lovely lady with very good selling skills.  After trying on a few tops I bought three for very little of money.  One of the tops is a lovely black and white polka dot halter neck which a few of the women in the house have asked for and laugh saying 'Sam's going bare back!'. lol

Near the market I found a supermarket selling Laughing Cow cheese (the closest I'm going to get to any type of cheese) and Sri Lankan Bourbon biscuits.  The supermarkets are nothing like back home, they're more small local shops with a variety of items stacked neatly on shelves.  I also noted they sold air fresheners which would be handy for my room as it's getting a bit sweaty with very little breeze and fresh air flowing through.  Seems a good idea until I think it may attract even more mozzies which I don't need.

Armed with my poor excuse for cheese and biscuits I picked up some oranges (which are green over here), a pineapple and a few more stories for the kids before jumping on a tro-tro back to Akrofu.  The night was spent reading to the kids and sheltering from the rain.

There was no electric in part of the village Thursday and most of Friday, so lantern and torchlight it was.  Luckily I've brought a wind-up torch which was handy for not eating much dinner after discovering my food consisted of fish head soup.  I'm hoping after saying I can't eat fish heads that they'll not serve it up again.  Fingers crossed.

Kids in their uniforms.

Friday morning Righteous came by to say there were visitors coming to the Primary school .  I went along and sat at the back to discover the visitors would be the Ghana Education Minister, the Ho Education Director and a number of other dignitories.  I felt very scruffy as everyone was dressed in their Sunday best, the Chiefs and entourage under canopies, the school kids in their uniform and also the Scout Commissioner and his pals in theirs.

As usual there was a lot of music, singing and dancing by the kids.  The Scout Commissioner also got up and danced, much to everyone's amusement.  He certainly was a character.

Again African time came into play and the Education Minister et al arrived in their big air-con 4x4s 3 hours late.  I think even the villagers were getting a bit peeved by this time although all was soon forgotten when it was confirmed the Government would help renovate the kindergarten school and provide more resources. Yay!

Along with the various Education ministers there were two guys from the UK fire service helping over here in Accra, looking equally as dressed down as me. lol.

After a libation ceremy performed by one of the Chiefs, an hour was spent with various speakers and applause before the visitors, Chiefs and Elders headed over to inspect the school buildings.  While they were gone music was played again and a few of the women and myself had a bit of a dance under the mango trees.  Again waving hankies in the air and wiggling bottoms.

Mother and kids receiving a
scholarship.

When the Chiefs arrived back some soft drinks were passed around before everyone left and I headed back to the house with a load of kids in tow.  I'd literally sat down for about a minute when Badu came over to say lets go to Abutia where he had some scholarship money to hand over to a mother for one of her kids.  Badu runs the SODECO NGO I work with over here and wanted me to witness where some of the money goes and how it is used.    So off we went as it started to rain.

It took us about 30 mins to get there, where we visited the mother and kids (the father is not 'responsible' as Badu put it, which I took to mean he has nothing to do with the kids or their mother and doesn't help out). 

Scholarships of various amounts are provided mainly for orphanged children or those that have lost one parent.  There are a number of beneficiaries in Accra, here in Akrofu and the surrounding area.  Everything is written down, the beneficiaries have to sign for the money and when it is used to help school fees, uniforms, text books etc, Badu requests school reports to ensure the kids are going to school and doing well.  If after a year it is found the children have not been going to school, are not performing well or the money has been misused, no further help is provided.

Badu and some of the kids with their
gaurdians in Akrofu receiving
scholarships.

When we arrived back in Akrofu, those receiving scholarships here were assembled and the relevant guardian signed for receipt.  Some of the kids are studying at the local private school, 'Liberty Memorial School Complex', where Badu took their fees direct to the Headmaster and collected a receipt.  It was great to see some of the kids benefiting from these scholarships and understand more of how Badu conducts his NGO.  It is also good to see that money I send over here is used appropriately and everything is accountable.  Here's to a continued partnership and hopefully a benefit to many kids. :-)

I know a few of my mates are looking to sponsor some children separately and I am in the process of discussing potential candidates with Badu and the various Headmasters.  I'll contact you directly when decisions have been made, take photos and send all the details to  you.

The electricity returned Friday night.  Yay!  No fish head soup.  Yay!  And more reading with the kids.  Yay!

Saturday morning the J H S Headmaster, Dixon, paid me a fleeting visit as well as Seth Ado,  Badu's brother's, son Maulin.  He'd brought some oranges from his father and greetings from his mum.  We talked about his studies at the Liberty school and how pineapples grow. lol.  A very bright nine year old.

Some of the pupils cutting the grass with
cutlass (machetes).

Yesterday morning there was a staff meeting at the JHS to confirm who is teaching what etc.  I'll be helping out with ICT and Integrated Science.  Lessons were to start today, however it was declared a holiday at the last moment and some of the pupils were called to cut the grass!  So tomorrow will be time to knuckle down.  I've yet to arrange with the Primary Headmaster to sort out what they'd like me the do there.

Sunday morning I noticed two tiny goat kids and their mother.  Soo cute.  You can tell with all the talk about insects and wildlife that I live in an urban area back home. lol.

Nothing from the coughing sheep and I'm wondering whether it has met it's end.  It could be all better and frolicking around with it's mates or continuing peace keeping missions but unfortunately I doubt it.

One spider in my room is getting more courageous and standing like a statue about half a metre from my pillow!  Not good at all.  It's not the biggest I've seen but still.  A quick tap next to it with a long radio aerial and it's off.  Ta-ra, all the best but don't come back and bring your mates with you.  At least it's not the humongous beetle I saw on the outside of the house that looked like it had just stepped out of the Cretaceous period.

ttfn

Sam x

More Rain, 'Who is the policeman?' and peace keeping success

The day after I arrived back from Accra (Thursday) I did very little.  I was going to pop to Ho but after breakfast and listening to the news it looked like it was going to rain, so I decided to stay put and listen to some music.  There turned out to be very little rain but after the previous two days of travelling I needed some time to chill.  The TV in the living area wasn't working so a repair man was called to come and fix it.

Main road through the centre
of Akrofu

I wasn't too bothered as I haven't missed TV at all, although it would be nice to see a film now and then.  Nearly everyone in the house however wanted to watch the footie.  It cost 5 Ghana cedis (around £2.50) to fix the TV which can only pick up two channels.  Not much was on that afternoon so we didn't bother with it.

There was a Ghanaian film shown on the coach from Kumasi to Accra (can't remember what it was called now) but to do with a man finding his wife and his house help in bed together and deciding to hire some men to kill him.  Have to admit the acting was very enthusiastic and was enjoyed by most on the coach.  I don't think it'll win any Oscars though.

Friday I did make it to Ho at around 11:30.  Went to the internet cafe so I could upload some pics and visited the same drinking spot for a beer and rice with pepper (chilli) sauce (unfortunately the cook had no yam left).  The skies were darkening and rain seemed imminent.  I needed to buy some things from the market so I drank up and quickly made my way.  Two of the stalls in the market sell carrots, green beans, potatoes, pasta etc. catering for expats and foreign visitors.  This was my first port of call for the spuds, green beans, green pepper and some spices with a few huge spring onions thrown in for free (even though some have very little  they are very generous with what they have and won't accept any payment).

After a few more stalls to pick up some onions, tea bread, scrubbing brush and cleaner for the bathroom I tried to find a tro-tro back.  There was one heading to Kpeve which is about 10 miles further on from Akrofu but the ticket seller wanted 1 cedi 20 peswas (60p), double the actual cost of the journey.  I know it's not much for us but the price is 60 peswas and that's what I pay.  A few bystanders seemed to agree with me and even argued on my behalf but the bloke was having none of it.  Therefore I headed to the main road to pick up a tro-tro and with only a 5 minute wait I was on board and on my way as the heavens opened.

It absolutely pelted down and the driver stopped half way because he couldn't see out of the cracked windscreen.  Most of the tro-tros have enormous cracks in their windscreens and even though it's more comfy to sit in the front it is also more worrying.  The roads tend to be very bumpy with lots of pots holes and makeshift sleeping police men in the villages to try and slow down the traffic.  These are on the tarmac roads so you can imagine what the dirt roads are like.  One particularly nasty bump and I can imagine the windscreens just giving up.

By the time I arrived back in the village at 5ish it was starting to rain here. A quick dash to the house and safe and sound.  Atowa and Perfect came in to see what I had bought and we tried to see what was on the tele.  Unfortunately, I think due to the weather, we couldn't get a clear picture.  The sound was ok but nothing to see. 

In the house with some visitors.

Cudjo had a go as he knew the footie was on and wanted to watch it but still no luck.  It wasn't long before a few of the kids joined us and the evening was spent playing 'Who is the policeman?' and Boy, Girl, Animal, Plant, etc while it continued to rain until around 8:30.

'Who is the policeman?' is a game the kids play over here.  There are four pieces of paper each with one letter, either: P (Policeman), C (I think stands for a reporter for some reason), T (Thief) and B (no idea what that it, and the kids didn't seem to either.  Possibly bystander).  The papers are crumpled up and four people pick one.  They keep the letter to themselves and the one with C says 'Who is the policeman?', the person with the P says 'I am the policeman' and has to pretend shot who he/she thinks is the thief.   If the guess is correct you get a point.  Exciting stuff!  It was quite fun with an amount of cheating going on and lots of laughter which is the main thing.

There was also a lot of cheating going on with the Boy, Girl game.  Everyone was copying each other when they couldn't think of a name or plant beginning with a particular letter or just making one up.  Again lots of laughter and I thought a good game to help the kids with their spelling.

The final activity of the night was the kid's idea.  To see if they could stay in a seated position against the wall for 5 minutes.  The first few attempts were I have to admit pathetic, lasting about 15-30 seconds.  After a few goes they all managed to do the full 5 mins with much contorted facial expressions, shaking legs and not so quiet screaming and laughing by the others.  I was also laughing even though this is one exercise I am absolutely hopeless at.  I think I'm going to have to include it in my morning exercise regime in case I am called upon to try it myself.

Church again on Sunday.  This time I went to one a few miles from the village just to see what it was like.  A short tro-tro journey and about a half mile walk to a tiny village without water or electricity.  Everyone was very friendly with the pastor even saying he would build a small building for me to stay in when I visit.  No matter how much I said there was no need, as I would be building a house in Akrofu, he still persisted in saying he would do it.  I hope he doesn't and I expect he probably won’t, as I only paid them a visit as a favour to Ruth in the house and see what her church was like.

As expected there was lots of singing and dancing in a relatively small one roomed building.  The pastor didn't seem to do much and most of the preaching, singing and 'talking in tongues', was done by a few others.  It seemed to be a mix of Evangelical and traditional worship.  Each of the preachers had a mike that was connected to a large speaker resulting in me being one step closer to deafness.

When we were about to leave I was called to the front where the pastor held my hand and prayed for my safe journey back and good life.  I was embarrassed to say the least but they were all very nice people and seemed to enjoy my attempt at their particular dancing - a kind of shuffling in a conga type line bending down and waving hankies in the air.

Some dancing one evening.

The pastor was kind enough to drive us back to Akrofu in a beat up granada with no air-con and unable to open the windows.  After alighting and breathing fresh air on the short walk to the house I started to prepare the stew with the ingredients and a few other bits and pieces I'd bought on Friday.  Not sure many of them liked the potatoes much but the veg went down a treat.

My first Ewe lesson with Nat Monday morning went very well I thought.  Lasted about an hour and we went through their vowels and some consonants/double consonants.  One extra vowel than the English ones.  A kind of backwards c, pronounce 'aw'.  The next lesson is on Thursday.

I thought school was starting this week but for some reason the Educational Authority has given everyone another week’s holiday.  I am looking forward to it as I've been getting a bit bored.  I enjoy relaxing and chilling out but after a month I really need to do something.  It will be great to meet the teachers I don't know and see how the kids are doing in their studies.

The spiders in the bedroom are getting bigger.  I'm thinking because they were just little babies when they arrived and are now growing into adulthood.  I don't get too close but have noticed one has a leg missing.  I would say the largest I've seen is just a bit smaller than my palm.  I'm really hoping they don't get any bigger than this and at night I've been using my mozzy net more.  As if that would help keep any wandering spider at bay.  More because the mozzies are out in full force due to the rain...great!  Just been playing tag with a particularly large nasty looking one.  Needless to say I'm losing.

I think we've come to the final chapter in the goat and chicken war.  The sheep seem to have intervened as successful peace keepers and hostilities have come to an end.  Hooray!  Now they only have to worry about what type of food they'll end up in.

I'm really going to have to carry my camera wherever I go.  Just seen two adolescent chickens staring each other out and jumping at each other.  Another one rushed up to see what all the commotion was about.  They're probably just learning to fight for when they're older but it doesn't take much to entertain me these days.  Lol.

Until the next time.  Hope you're all ok.

Sam x

Washing clothes, Moses, strange sounds at night and long bus journeys

Washing my clothes seems to be a continual source of entertainment for the kids and adults in the house, or anyone else that passes by for that matter.  Some of the women offer to wash them for me but unless it's just the odd item and they're already washing clothes it doesn't really feel right to me.  Also on a previous occasion one of my t-shirts ended up mishapen and stretched after some rather rigorous washing.  So I prefer washing them myself, especially my underwear.  I haven't hand washed for years but I think I'm doing ok.  It's also one of the only sources of exercise I'm getting.  I've started doing a few exercises in the morning when it's cooler.  Just some sit ups, press ups, triceps dips and squatts.  Prob more exercise than I was doing back home, even with Esporta membership.

Atowa, a lovely lady in the house who cooks for me.

There was a massive arguement between a load of women outside the house the other morning.  Started about 6am and continued for at least an hour.  Have no idea what it was all about and at that time in the morning I didn't particularly care, having been woken again (church bells earlier) and in some desperate need of more beauty sleep.  It did seem to get quite heated and I am intrigued.  I've not seen any 'punch-ups' during my time in Ghana but the arguements are something to witness.  Lots of loud and quick shouting and pointing, and with the blokes there's also quite a bit of English swearing intermingled with Ewe which makes me laugh.  I know I shouldn't but I just can't help it, it sounds funny.

The village is relatively peaceful again after visitors for the funeral departed.  It's not a tranquil peace and quiet that you can get in some remote villages back home and elsewhere or where you'd find some yoga retreat, it's more of an easy does it, don't rush, screaming kids and drumming kind of quiet.  I've tried meditating without much joy.  I'm a beginner, so trying to stop my mind from chattering is hard at the best and quietest of times.  I suppose I should get up and try at stupid o'clock when the church bells toll.

Moses Osei, the previous headmaster of the JHS, paid me a visit Monday morning.  It was great to see him again and as with everyone else he doesn't seem to have changed a bit.  After 14 years here in Akrofu he was transferred to a different school in his home village a few years ago.  According to John and Emil, Moses was helping to set up a school there and the villagers in Akrofu complained to the Education Authority.  Seems a bit harsh as he'd done a great job here and I expect, would continue to do so.  Maybe they thought he wouldn't be spending as much time here and concentrating on the new school.  He is happy there however, it's his home village and he has a chance of helping kids who would otherwise not be in school or walking quite a distance.  At some point soon I'll pay it a visit and see what it is like. 

It does seem that Akrofu is fortunate to have Badu running an NGO and contacting international volunteering agencies to bring in foreigners to help.  I believe at the last count seven volunteers have stayed here, including Eddie and myself (Eddie was in Akrofu the same time as me on my first visit).  Not many villages and schools are this lucky and it would be great if in the future I was able to help some of these in some way as well.  I know Badu has been helping other schools in the area so will speak more with him.  It is looking like I will need to set up some sort of NGO back home and make things more official.
     

I was awake quite late the other night, typing up a post for this blog in Word, so I can just copy and paste when I'm online.  When I did decide to get some sleep around 11:30 after a few minutes I heard a rustling and cracking/crunching noise.  At first I thought it might be the goats outside crunching on some fruit or the bones of their poor chicken victims, until I realised it was coming from inside the room.  Stop breathing, listen, shine a torch, what the hell is it?  It took me awhile to pluck up the courage to get out of bed and switch the light on.  It seemed to be coming from the plastic bag of pens I'd brought for the school, but I couldn't see anything and didn't really want to investigate too much in case something was trapped in there and decided to leap out at me.  So after a few moments of silence and feeling a bit silly I went back to bed and feel into a slightly worried sleep.  I still have no idea what it was and it's probably best I never do.

Jackson with his wife and son.

Tuesday morning I was up at 3am to set off early and catch a bus to Kumasi.  Jackson was going to register for his final year at Uni and as it was in Kumasi (Ashanti Region) where i'd never been before, I decided to join him.  We managed to get a tro-tro from Akrofu to Ho around 4:30 only to find the first bus to Kumasi was full and we'd have to wait in line.  Apart from in banks this is the first orderly queuing I've seen here.

After a particularily gruelling seven hour bus jouney (natural air-con) we arrived in Kumasi around 13:30.  I peeled myself offf the seat and discovered we'd need to get another tro-tro to Mampong where the University campus was. 'Is is far?' I asked Jackson, 'No, no, not far.'  He replied.  An hour later we arrived.

The campus was well kept and felt like a studenty type place.  Some were already there with the remaining arriving this weekend for lectures starting on Monday.  Jackson greeted a few of his fellow course mates and proceeded to register.  As you might imagine this took some time.  Nothing is kept on file where the students can register in one office in a short space of time.  No no, several offices and about 2 hours later Jackson was finished.

About 20% of the students live on campus with the remaining staying in Mampong a short distance away.  The Uni is in the process of building another accommodation block which isdue to be completed for next year's enrolments.  Several stories high and currently being held up with wooden planks and posts.  I'm glad I didn't have to go anywhere near it.

Jackson stayed with some mates from Uni and I stayed in a guest house for about £6.  There was a bar and they did food, so no need to wander about, which I was glad for, as by this time I was shatttered and there would be another early start for us to journey to Accra.

Up at 3:30 and luckily we could get a proper air-con coach from Kumasi to Accra.  We set off at around 6 and arrived in Accra around 11:30.  Jackson seems to have no idea of timing or distance.  According to him that journey takes 3 hours.  I'll add around 2 hours to every journey from now on.

We both had to sort some things in Accra; Jackson to cancel some insurance payments that shouldn't be occurring and me to change some travellers cheques.  Another of Jackson's timing errors; at 12 noon we were walking to the insurance company and he thought we'd be finished with everything and trying to get a bus back to Ho by 13:00.  I did doubt this at the time and was proved correct.  It took an hour for Jackson to sort the insurance out and another hour and half to find a bank that would change the travellers cheques.  My 5th Barclays in total - one in Ho, one in Kumasi and three in Accra!  So it seems the head office is the only branch that will change them and much to my annoyance there is a maximum of $250 per day.  This doesn't even cover the money I've raised for the school, so I have to make another trip to Accra and stay a few days to change more.  I was not a happy bunny yesterday afternoon but at least I managed to change some of them and put the money in my account here.  I will be writing a stern email to Barclays to indicate my annoyance and ask why the banks back home encourage bringing travellers cheques when few of the banks over here actually cash them.  They did in the past and it was great.  No need to carry lots of cash and relying on ATMs (which wouldn't take my cards previously anyway).  I am starting to wonder what it will be like in the other African countries I'll be visiting and India.  Can't wait.

Fortunately we were able to grab an air-con tro-tro quite quickly at around 15:00.  It took almost 2 hours to get out of Accra due to the traffic (I did notice a pizza restaurant, which made me very hungry) and arrived back in the village around 7pm.  I had a pasta dinner and promptly feel asleep for a few hours.  After two very long days I was shattered and glad to be back.

The local drinking spot where I can get online.

One evening, while having a relaxing beer in the shop/drinking spot about a 100m from the house and realising I couldn't get online, I watched a line of ants travelling back and forth across the wall, stopping for a slit second to 'greet' one another and probably saying 'the sugar's in the back.  Hurry up!'.  I noticed the occasional ant wandering off into unknown lands.  Maybe he'd had too much sugar and was on a bit of a hypa frenzy or thinking 'bugger this for a laugh, I'm going to make my own way in this world'.

There have been no further developments as far as I can tell in the coughing sheep or the goat and chicken war.  Maybe there's been a peace agreement.  As soon as I know anything I'll write it up.  I'm sure you're all eager to hear what happens. Lol.  One day I did notice quite a large group of sheep marching past the house.  Maybe they've decided to join in the conflict.   If so I'm half hoping they'll be allies of the chickens as they seemed to be having a hard time of it.

ttfn

Sam x

White people, learning Ewe and a funeral

I've seen more white people in Ho than all the times I've been here before.  One guy was wearing a Projects Abroad t-shirt and they seem to be American, athough I haven't spoken to them, just heard them.  They're not quiet.  As Ghana is currently a stable African country it's not surprising that many volunteers are now coming here and it's great that there are more people wanting to help.  They all seem to be in their 20s so I'm feeling a bit of an old fogey.  So far I've seen around 10 of them.  Doesn't seem many but in comparison to the one or two I've seen previously it's a massive increase.

Paid a visit to Vodafone in Ho yesterday to see if I could connect my netbook to their internet in order to re-download virus protection etc.  Been having probs with the connection in Akrofu.  No need for a USB cable they have wireless.  Fab.  Much quicker than what I've been used to so far over here and managed to get quite a lot done in the hour and a half I was there.  Total cost £1.20.  This is where I heard the Americans in their not too quiet voices complaining about mold on the ceiling of where they were staying and how slow it was at the bank.  I definitely agree with the latter.  After several hours of waiting on two different occasions I now have a Barclays savings account over here, where I can put my travellers cheques into and not get charged for withdrawing from an ATM.  Will be much easier in the future, when I can transfer money from home before I fly out.  Don't know why I haven't done this beforehand.  All banks are slow even back home.  At least there's air-con here (with all windows and doors closed).

Forgot to mention in my previous post that Old Soldier has married his late brother's wife.  At the funeral it was decided that he should take care of her and her children.  I did wonder how much input she had into that conversation, but they seem happy together.  She has two daughters from her previous marriage and Old Soldier already had two daughters and two sons - not sure about his first wife, he hasn't mentioned her yet.   All the children are working and living in Accra and he is proud to say doing well for themselves.

Left to right: Favour, Ludia, Kate and Hammond.

I'm doing dictation of sorts with some of the kids in the evening.  Kate is doing well but the other two are having some difficulty.  Part of it I think is my accent and how I say words.  I'm finding myself pronouncing words as they do so they can understand better.  I wonder what my accent will be like by the time I get back.


The kids are also helping me with my Ewe, although it's quite difficult to understand each word when there are several enthusiastic kids shouting at the same time.  Some of the first sentences they taught me were 'be/keep quiet', 'what are you doing?', 'stop doing that', 'stop insulting that person' and 'don't beat'.  I get the impression these are said to the kids quite often.

A guy from the village and a relative of Jackson (everyone seems to be related some way of another, I can't keep up), Nathaniel, has also offered to teach me Ewe.  He teaches many of the missionaries who go to Ho.  Probably the most religious person I've ever met so not sure how it is going to go.  If he just sticks to the Ewe and not go on about Jesus and God then it'll be ok.  That I continually mention I'm not religious, at least not any form of organised religion, is soon forgotten.  They are a very religious people no matter what form of religion it is, whether Christianity, Traditional or whatever.  Jackson and others keep asking me if I'm going to church,  which I reply, 'occassionally'.  So I'm hoping Nathaniel doesn't see this as an opportunity to try and convert someone.  He'll be greatly disappointed, I'll be seriously pissed off and our Ewe lessons will be short lived.

There was a funeral this weekend.  Loads of people descended on the village Friday evening, milling about and paying respects to the family.  Lots of loud singing, drumming and dancing going on until around 5am according to my sleep deprevation.  When there's a funeral in the village most people who live away return for the weekend to pay respects and catch up with family and friends.  A definite hive of activity in complete contrast to the norm.

Listening to Shabba in the village is a bit odd, but then any black rapper/singer from the West is well received here.  They do like Celine Dion for some reason as well.  Over the weekend an S-Club 7 track blared out from the biggest speakers I've seen outside of a concert.  I thought I'd managed to get away from that type of music but unfortunately not, I had a flash back to a Saturday night in Bridgend.

Last year I received a message from Jackson saying his father had tragically died in a car accident.  Very sad.  I've now found out he was greeting another man outside a house just off the road and a car veered off and hit them.  Both were killed and the families are still trying to get the insurance money.  It seems the police are not interested and will only do a proper investigation if given some money.

It is tradition that those paying respects donate money to the family to help pay for the funeral.  The cost of funerals over here is often more than families can afford.  Sometimes someone offers to pay for everything on the off chance they'll receive more money back in gifts from those paying respects with very little going to the berieved family.  Often bodies are kept in the mortuary for months, even up to six months or more, until the family have raised enough for burial.   

On a lighter note I've had a skirt and top made by a local seamstress.  A very vibrant green!  Apparently I look 'very fine' in it and like a proper African lady.  Albeit with some sort of Michael Jackson skin condition.  If I'm accosted and dragged to church on Sunday (joy of joys) I'll wear it.

My usual drinking spot in Ho has disappeared, so after a bit of a wander the other day I found another relatively quiet place that does food, where I can sit unnoticed.  I had fried yam chips with chilli sauce, yum yum.  It is more expensive than buying from street stalls, which have equally yummy yam, but I can sit, relax and have a beer at the same time.

I've been asking about the local drumming group and whether they would mind teaching me how to drum the local Bobobo music.  I bought a drum the last time I was here, which has been sitting in my living room practically untouched since, so will be good to be able to play it properly.  It is currently being used as a DVD/CD stand.

I've also enquired about local herbal medicines.  Curious as to what they use, how they make them and apparent medicinal qualities.  Jackson is doing a final year project at uni on how to extract the active ingredient from neem to help preserve seeds.  No idea what neem is at the mo, will have to look it up.

It has rained a few times the past couple of days which has dropped the temperature from an almost unbearable heat to cooler less sweaty conditions.  Was wondering how much one person can sweat...apparently a lot.  Yesterday it was torrential, lasting only about 20 mins but there was a river of water flowing past the back of the house.  With hardly any drainage system flooding is a definite possibility if it rains continuously like that over a longer period of time.  Last year several parts of Ghana were severely affected by flooding.  Fortunately there were relatively few fatalities and displaced people and not on the scale as is occurring in Pakistan at the moment.

No coughing sheep for a while until last night.  It is now spitting in between coughs, not good.  A decrease in the chicken population seems to be proportional to the increase in goats.  Several explanations could be the reason, some more plausible than others: the chickens have discovered a way of shape shifting;  more goats are being born; due to the funeral catering, more chickens sacrificed themselves for the good of humans; the goats have upped the anti in the war and winning, secretly hiding the bodies; chickens have realised they are no match for the army of goats and their general has gone 'run away! run away!'.

Bye for now.

Sam x

Too much chilli?, Old Soldier and Mona Monkeys

Been over a week since my last post.  Had probs with netbook deleting my user profile for some reason and couldn't logon.  Luckily all sorted now after a backup recovery.  Pain in the arse!  Thanks Karen for your help.

Pounding fufu in the house.

Almost three weeks and daily food consists of rice, banku, fufu, occasionally pasta or fried yam when I'm in Ho.  All with a chilli sauce.  Not much variety but the sauce is great; nice and hot but was wondering whether you can have too much chilli.  Prob not and I'm sure I saw somewhere that it's good for you.  That's what I'm going to stick to anyway, although finding chilli in an omlette for breakfast may be a bit much for a certain part of my anatomy.


Have had lunch at 'Old Soldier's' a few times with a couple of glasses of red boxed 'Spanish table wine' (not the greatest but in the absence of any other wine...).  His wife is a great cook and even had soya.  Seems one of his sisters is a vegetarian and owns a veggi shop in Accra.


'Old Soldier' is one of the chiefs here in the village and used to be a UN soldier for 26 years with postings in various countries including Sierra Leone and Liberia during the civil wars.  He doesn't go into much detail of what he's seen, but the occasional comment about women and children who had survived machete attacks shows that he found it difficult at times and just had to 'put things to the back of my mind and get on with my job' as he puts it.  Even though we hear of humanitarian crisis around the world, we've no idea  what it's like for those people.  Watching the news with more than enough food and drink and all forgotten when some crap reality tv show comes on.  The few courses I've done with REDR UK have comfirmed and increased my wish to enter the humanitarian sector, so hopefully I'll be able to do this on my return or perhaps on my travels.


On one visit Old Soldier showed my some plots of land being used to build houses.  Each is on a plot of 100 x 100 feet.  Can't wait to get my house sorted.  He has offered to help in organising the build along with Badu and Jackson and to ensure it is secure; his speciality.  Jackson has shown me a plan of a house that I could use.   A bit of rearrangment of rooms and it will be fab.  Hopefully the plan, land marked out and quote can be arranged on this visit and the house built by the time I'm next over here.  Will be discussing more with Badu when he's back in the village next weekend for a funeral.

Ruth all ready for church.

Church again Sunday morning.  Jackson was doing most of the preaching and wanted to introduce me; even though everyone knows I'm here and who I am.  Slipped out early whilst everyone was dancing.  Also the church bell is now ringing at 4 and 4:30am; fantastic!  Seems there are very early morning services and to wake people up, to get out of bed and go to their farms.  As if people didn't get up anyway before Christianity arrived.

After 3 hours at the local hairdressers I now have braided hair again.  She didn't have any other colour mesh apart from black, so I'm going goth for a little while.  Not exactly as I wanted it, there are neat gaps between the briads and my head looks like a football pattern.  Will be ok for now and helps with the heat but the next time I'll make sure it's completely covered and red.

Mama Mona and babies.

Hello, what u looking at?

Up at 4am Wednesday to head off to Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary with Jackson and his son Prince.  Took about 2 and a half hours to get there and think it's only about 50km away.  Wandered through the forest for a little while before we saw any.  Our guide was carrying bananas and making sucking noises to attract them.  We saw one troup of the Mona monkeys and how cute!  They came right up to us eating the bananas from our hands.  I did ask whether anyone would go through this ritual to entice them in order to kill them, but luckily the monkeys and forest now are protected in that area after becoming endangered, with the villagers keeping a close eye out.  They protect the monkeys and forest, one, for the tourism income and two, they believe the local gods sent them.


The coughing sheep is still about sounding very sorry for itself, poor thing.  The goat is raising an army and my room is slowly being invaded by several different types of spider.  The spiders tend to keep to themselves and seem more afraid of me than I am of them.  Little do they know that if they stood their ground I'd be the one doing a runner.


Until next time...


Sam x